We traveled to Virginia for Christmas this year to visit George's family. It was our first Christmastime in Virginia since 2005, and it was time for our kids to remember what Christmas at the Zahns is like again. We took the train from Minnesota to Williamsburg.
Riding Amtrak from Minnesota to Williamsburg, Virginia was a scream--for better and worse. Let's just say, particularly on the Empire Builder going east from Minnesota, be prepared for delays and changes of plans. The famous superliner, Empire Builder, originates in Chicago, heads west to Seattle, and by the time it gets to Minnesota it's on the 6th day of a 6-day trip so things can get a little hairy by day 6.
The "vintage" Amtrak station in St. Cloud, Minnesota
Some passengers have been on the train from Seattle, for 3 days, so you might want to keep your distance because they can be a) a little dirty and b) a little loopy. I only had one woman show me the pictures of her pet squirrel. She fit both categories.
Amtrak trains are comfortable if not super-clean. We viewed a lot of gorgeous scenery across America, as well as plenty of what appeared to be the dumping grounds of a Third World country. We enjoyed walking from car to car, taking in the sites and changing to more upright seats in both the Lounge and Dining Cars. The food in the dining cars was quite good, and we appreciated the elegant touches like white tablecloths and fresh flowers. Comfort and food were a big step up from airline travel.
But it does take time. And our train to Chicago was several hours late, which meant we missed the Capitol Limited to Washington, D.C. We couldn't wait 24 hours for the next Capitol Limited to depart east, so we chose the only.other.alternate.route. And that was, illogically enough, taking the Lakeshore Limited train north to Buffalo, Rochester, Albany and finally, New York City, New York. At first we were furious (hence, the scream for the worse) about this. Taking the sensible route on the Capitol Limited wouldn't have had us in Virginia until 8:30 on Christmas Night, instead of our planned 8:30 Christmas Eve. If we missed Christmas Day, we missed half of George's siblings and all of the kids' cousins as they all had to leave for home or various vacations on December 26.
Fuming, we hopped aboard the Lakeshore Limited at 9 p.m. on December 23. There was no other choice. (Lesson number two--right after plan for delays--they don't run as many trains as they do airplanes in this country. Not even close. Or wait, is that lesson number three? Another we learned on the Empire Builder is never take the Lounge Car attendant for granted when she announces "last call for food". You may have 4 hours left of a train ride and no more opportunity to buy snacks, water or coffee. Get your butt to the lounge car and get what you need!)
Fortunately, we had plenty of down time while heading in the opposite direction of our final destination, on our way to New York. We got over it. And started getting very, very excited about spending a few hours of Christmas Eve in a place we'd never been--Manhattan. We would be there from 6:30 p.m. until the Northeast Regional left for Virginia at 3 in the morning, Christmas Day.
We decided that once we got to Manhattan we would take a taxi. And even if it cost a hundred bucks (what would a tour of Manhattan by taxi cost, anyway?!), we figured that would be one heck of a cheap trip to Manhattan.
Once at Penn Station, we checked our suitcases for a few hours at baggage claim. We found the taxi pick-up area and hopped into a van. Boy, did we get lucky. Our cab driver, Arsen from Armenia, was just awesome. Five years in New York City, and he was the biggest fan of the city. He loved showing us around and brought us by or to all the places we could think of. Times Square, Rockefeller Center (the tree! the lights!), the Late Show with David Letterman marquis, Central Park, Battery Park and Ground Zero, Brooklyn across the bridge and to see the "best view of the city you'll ever find" including the Statue of Liberty. You name it, we probably saw it in two short and exciting hours (which, by the way, cost us $75 in fare and $50 for a generous Christmas tip).
Manhattan is crazy-wonderful and we could really feel that amazing vibe on Christmas Eve, when everyone in the city was happy. We even impressed our 12-year old daughter, and that's not easy these days.
By Christmas morning we were on a train full of very cheerful people. Even the staff on the Northeast Regional were fresh and friendly. There was a lot of happy banter and story-telling in the cafe car that morning. "Where you headed for Christmas?" was the question of the morning. Many were excited to be visiting Williamsburg, Virginia at its loveliest season (second only to summer when the gardens are in bloom). Some were going to Virginia Beach to see friends. A mother was taking her kids to visit a sister she rarely sees. It was fun, and we were so happy to be on our last day of three days of travel (that was supposed to be two).
We were "home" at Grandma and Grandpa's by 1 p.m. and the family was waiting for us. Presents were opened, stories were told, country ham was devoured for lunch, and a big Christmas Dinner kept us going until the evening.
Comments